Open for less than a month, Cibo Waterfront Café is literally banking on some supreme riverside real estate. Located at 339 Waterfront Drive, Cibo resides in a renovated heritage building that is on the brink of the Red River and the east Exchange District.

It took a few trips up and down Waterfront to realize what we were looking for. Cibo is situated behind Mere, a hotel that has dizzying green and yellow vertical tubes as its exterior. After a quick walk through Mere’s space age lobby and a five second jaunt outside, we were greeted by Cibo’s doors. 

Although the café is still in its infancy, the building in which it’s located is far from it. It was built in the early 1900s and has taken on different roles, from an intake pump house to a harbour house. 

Walking in, it was clear that the historic edge of the building wasn’t lost in renovation. If anything it was celebrated, with small touches like original brick walls and large window panes kept intact. They were accented by the more modern effects of exposed wooden tables and hanging orange light bulbs.

We decided to sit on an upper landing at the far end of the spacey room. There were large windows that framed a view of the train bridge, the river and the Human Rights Museum. We were greeted by a friendly server and ordered Irish coffees ($6) to combat winter head on.  

Prices through breakfast, lunch and dinner all fall under $20, except for one (the rib eye and prawns dish will set you back $30). And if you’re only craving a snack, they offer an array of appetizers such as an olive and cheese plate ($11) or you can build your own bruschetta ($12) with your choice of three ingredients.

While my date erred on the side of breakfast ordering the Cibo benny ($12), I launched into lunch at 10 am with the Spanish chicken panino ($14). 

The benny came to our table presented in a shallow stone bowl, giving it a homey look. The eggs were cooked well and there was a thin piece of prosciutto that added just the right amount of saltiness.  

The panino is the relative of the more well-known panini. Instead of flattening and grilling the bread, the bread is more similar to a baguette and is lightly toasted. The chicken was tender and flavourful, and the side mixed green salad came complete with balsamic oil and unpitted olives.

Somewhere between Cibo’s modern and historic fusion, great views and atmosphere I realized that I was left very charmed by the café. As soon as I left, I craved another visit, pronto.

Published in Volume 68, Number 17 of The Uniter (January 22, 2014)