All dressed up…

Jane’s offers fine dining experience without the fine dining

Mike Sudoma

Jane’s Restaurant is Red River College’s student-run fine dining establishment. The concept is mutually beneficial for patrons and pupils; somewhere to eat high-quality food on a modest budget while simultaneously preparing its chefs/serving staff for work after graduation.

Located at 504 Main St., Jane’s is a nice sight to drink in. The former Union Bank Tower has been restored beautifully. The high ceilings, wine-coloured columns and natural light all make for an atmosphere straight out of classic cinema.

My date and I were there for lunch, which is available from 11:30 a.m. to 12:45 p.m. Because of the limited hours, calling ahead for reservations is encouraged. I’m not generally used to eating or even waking up before noon so I didn’t think to dress up, but I would encourage putting a little extra effort into your appearance for Jane’s. Think “ladies who lunch.”

Our server was very pleasant but still learning the ropes as far as formal dining goes and had trouble rolling with little mistakes. This was understandable given the fact that the restaurant is meant to educate and provide experience, but it did make for some uncomfortable moments.

The assorted bread we received prior to the meal was impressive and I especially liked the clover roll, a warm puffy treat that was satisfying while being light enough that I was still hungry for lunch.

I ordered the apple cider marinated pork tenderloin with a Seagram’s whisky sauce served with Israeli couscous ($14.25) My date decided on the braised beef cheeks with celeriac and potato purée ($13.25).

The food arrived promptly and looked lovely, though there wasn’t much of it. I was anticipating less food given the fancy nature of my surroundings, but ended up disappointed at the bland taste of both dishes. The beef cheeks were kind of like an upscale take on chunky soup and while I liked the whiskey sauce on my pork, the meat itself was dry and lacking in flavor.

We opted out of dessert, though I may return just to try the pineapple rum cake with a raspberry Florentine and pineapple compote.

I wanted to like Jane’s a lot more than I did, but my experience in the beautiful establishment ended up somewhat forgettable. I can’t blame this all on the restaurant though. Perhaps I’m just not a fine dining gal. I mean, I thoroughly enjoyed the box of Girl Guide cookies I inhaled when I got home.

Published in Volume 68, Number 7 of The Uniter (October 16, 2013)

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